Tuesday, October 20, 2009

Robinson's Tavern and Grill: Never Judge a Book by Its Cover

Masters of deception: the term is hardly ever applied to restaurateurs, but you can’t help but think of this cliché when you walk into Robinson’s Tavern and Grill in Orange, VA. To the right of the restaurant's entryway, a vacuum bag salesroom; to the left, an Exxon fueling station. But once you wrestle the solid oak front doors open and step into the strip mall eatery, you’re immediately transported beyond the humble exterior of this new addition to the local restaurant scene. Your expectations for the evening will rise three-fold when the pleasant attendant waiting behind the dark wood paneled hostess stand leads you around a corner and into a dining area comprised of about 15 simple tabletops covered with crisp, white linen cloths. The crackle and glow from a blazing fireplace built into the wall opposite the diners makes me almost grateful for the early chill and icy rain that have descended upon central Virginia, so cozy is the mood created within this intimate dining room. After settling into a comfortable four-top table abutting a decorative bookcase that spans the width of the room, I force myself to stop peeping at the rustic and Civil War era décor of the room long enough focus upon the critical task at hand: choosing food and wine for the night.

It turns out I’ve gotten serious about my dining duty just in the nick of time, for no sooner have I finished perusing the extended wine list than my dinner guest and I are greeted by our server for the evening. Providing high-quality service is obviously a point of pride at Robinson’s, for the greeting that we receive at the table is just as warm as the welcome that came from the hostess when we first entered the building. To the standard opener – what can I get y’all to drink? (uttered in a smooth Southern drawl), we have a ready answer; a glass of Turning Leaf White Zinfandel ($7; $18 per bottle) and a Diet Coke, no ice. With the drink order out of the way and the server on a beverage run, we hunker down with the menu in hand and peruse our dinner options for the evening. The restaurant specializes in fine quality American fare, so the selections include prime cuts of beef, a variety of seafood options, and several intriguing chicken dishes. Amongst the comprehensive menu items are a Grilled Rib-Eye or New York Strip Steak, available in 8, 10, or 12 oz portions; a surf and turf inspired, crabmeat-stuffed Beef Filet; grilled salmon; a seafood platter of broiled or fried flounder, jumbo shrimp, and fresh scallops; and crabmeat stuffed flounder or shrimp. In addition to the meat and potatoes spectrum, Robinson’s menu includes a handful of pasta dishes, ranging from the traditional chicken parmesan with spaghetti to the gourmet seafood linguine.

Though we’ve been mulling over the menu for a good ten minutes, it’s extremely difficult to settle upon a dish for the evening; it’s a good problem to have, and I don’t lament any indecision sparked by an overly appetizing array of menu options. Through careful analysis and a semi-haphazard process of elimination, I decide to bypass the evening specials – a tough decision considering my personal love of prime rib, which is one of the Friday night highlights, along with a carnivorous trifecta of filet of beef, lamb, and pork medallions. I even eschew the pasta dishes, including chicken fettuccine alfredo, spaghetti with a meaty Bolognese sauce, and shrimp and scallops linguine in a traditional al oglio (i.e. garlic and oil sauce), all of which tempt the carbaholic in me, per usual. When our server returns bearing beverages and a round baguette of fresh baked bread, I have my menu closed, confident in my request for a classic favorite with a twist – Chicken Chesapeake, a whole chicken breast stuffed with crabmeat, Smithfield ham, and spinach and topped with a tomato cream sauce. Each entrée is accompanied by a choice of soup or salad, a starch, and the vegetable of the day, providing a very hearty meal for a very reasonable price, with entrees ranging from $15 to $22 dollars.

With the tough job of ordering out of the way, it’s finally time to revel in the gustatory and aesthetic treat that is Robinson’s Tavern. With the first bite of warm, pleasantly doughy, fresh-baked bread, I’m sold on this spot. The mini loaf of guilty pleasure bread is gone before the appetizer arrives, allowing us to focus our attention on the crabmeat stuffed mushrooms ($8) that are served atop a bed of plain lettuce and displayed in a miniature white tureen. While the dish includes large chunks of succulent crab, the meat and mushrooms are sadly lacking in taste. The earthy mushroom undertone is the most noticeable flavor in the appetizer, and the normally decadent treat is devoid of its traditionally robust flavor – typically found in a slightly salty and sweet, garlic-based glaze that is absent from this version. The arrival of our soups helps improve the mood at the table, as this next round of dinner is much more satisfying than the appetizer. I eagerly dive – spoon-first of course – into a cup of French Onion Soup, nudging through a layer of warm, melted mozzarella cheese and a thick slice of moist crouton into the perfectly seasoned broth beneath. The New England Clam Chowder, the other soup option of the day, fails to impress in the same manner as the French Onion. The creamy dish does have a nice flavor, with a fresh clam taste that is complemented with just the right amount of salty undertone, but the chowder is a bit thin and leaves you lamenting the insufficient amount of signature clams in the dish.

There is a pleasant pace to the dinner service, which allows the diner sufficient time to savor each of the dishes but provides a steady flow of food, and just as we are ready to push the soup platters to the side, our pleasant waitress arrives with the main course. The plate in front of me contains a very generously-sized chicken breast, accompanied by a side of red skin, scalloped potatoes and a medley of broccoli, cauliflower, and round carrot slices. On the second plate, two massive crab cakes dominate half of the available platter space and are complemented nicely by a mound of vibrant orange, mashed sweet potatoes, along with the standard vegetable of the day. We dig into the food, eager to see how this next dish compares to its predecessors; fortunately, the meal continues to take a turn for the better with the arrival of the entrées.

The Chicken Chesapeake includes a delightful medley of flavors, with a fresh seafood taste, compliments of the perfectly seasoned crab meat, which pairs nicely with the pleasantly salted, thinly sliced ham and the moist, rich spinach. The rich tomato cream sauce that was drizzled liberally upon the chicken, which was admittedly slightly drier than ideal, was the perfect complement to the savory amalgamation of tastes in the dish. I was equally impressed with the generously portioned crab cakes, which were 90% smooth, succulent crab meat and 10% well-seasoned breading. Unfortunately, the side dishes paled in comparison to the scrumptious entrees, though the bar was set rather high. The thinly sliced scalloped potatoes were dusted with a creamy topping, however the signature cheese sauce lacked enough of the key ingredient. And the mashed sweet potatoes had a pleasantly sugary undertone, but the consistency was a less-than-ideal level of mushy, with lumps of starch spread throughout. As for the vegetables, the bland taste was far from sufficient to elevate the food from its traditional underdog status at the dinner table.

Due to the abundance of food presented in accompaniment to the entrees, the dessert selection at Robinson’s Tavern could easily be overlooked by thoroughly sated diners at the end of their meals. However, to ignore the sweet factor would be to miss out on a signature Robinson’s dining experience. The desserts are baked fresh on the premises, and though the selection is therefore somewhat limited, the quality more than compensates for the quantity. Too full to do more than share a slice of decadence, my dinner guest and I decided to split a piece of chocolate cake with white icing ($5) – the other dessert selections that night included a Boston Crème Pie and a slice of cake à la ice cream sundae. Our piece of moist, three-layer chocolate cake had a light color and a lovely milk chocolate flavor; it was slightly sweetened in a way that was perfectly suited to the sugary essence of the perfectly smooth, white icing. The side of whipped cream and sliced strawberries provided a creamy balance to the deliciously sweet dish.

Savoring the last of the edible showpieces at Robinson’s gives you the opportunity to appreciate the classic charm of the dining room, which is decorated in antique country couture. Beige valances embroidered with black velvet fleur de lis emblems are draped across two sets of expansive windowpanes. Gauze curtains in a paler hue of taupe flow down to the floor. In the evening dusk, the soft light emitted by the old-fashioned, gilded table lanterns exudes a warmth that is much more potent than the actual heat of the flame. Light and shadow play upon the white-washed walls of the room, alternately illuminating and concealing the black and white photos of Civil War generals and their wives. Timeless taste is the motif at Robinson’s Tavern and Grill, so feast your eyes and your appetite at this welcome addition to the Orange County restaurant repertoire.

Get Your Motor Runnin': Waugh Harley Davidson's Annual Chili Blowout

Sweetly spiced, succulent, beefy chili; the irresistible aroma wafts across the dozens of people gawking at the beautiful chrome motorcycles on display at the Waugh Enterprises Harley Davidson showroom. Feed the people, and they will come. Especially when those people have driven tens to hundreds of miles aboard their majestic hogs, reveling in the invigorating breeze, the crisp, country air, and the warm solar embrace that are the joys of every motorcyclist. For 33 years now, the family-owned Harley franchise in Orange, Virginia has held a Chili Cook-Off Celebration on the second Saturday in October; part celebration for the company’s loyal customers, part promotional extravaganza. Whether you have a bike, want a bike, or have ever had your curiosity piqued by that biker whizzing past you on the highway, you’re guaranteed to have a great time at Orange County’s landmark Harley Davidson shop.

Ten hand-carved wooden rocking chairs are spread across the inviting front porch of the local Harley emporium; the first sign that you’re about to enter a place that prides itself on Southern hospitality and old-fashioned family values. Three generations of Waughs have run Orange County’s most famous shop; it was started by the family patriarch in 1939 and is managed today by the son and grandson of P.D. Waugh. When you enter the dealership’s showroom, you’re often greeted by the elder Mr. Waugh himself, who reigns over his biker kingdom from a solid oak desk positioned just inside of the sparkling glass entryway.

Sporting a beige fleece vest over a blue plaid flannel shirt and smelling sweetly of cigars, the astute businessman has a decidedly grandfatherly air that makes you feel immediately welcome. Amazingly, all of the Waugh family members share this personable air, a fact that you’ll realize as soon as you meet Mrs. Waugh and the two Waugh children, all of whom work in the family business and are stationed throughout the expansive, two-level store. Whether you’re here to buy or browse, the Waughs are more than obliging when answering your questions and directing you through the treasure trove of antique bikes, new model hogs, and biker gear and bling that can be found within the shop.

70 years ago, Waugh Enterprises was begun as a simple car and tractor shop, servicing the local farm economy; today, the full-service motorcycle dealership has become a defining element of life in Orange, VA. When the shop became an authorized Harley Davidson dealer in 1976, history was in the making for Orange itself, which became host to the first official Harley dealership in the state. P.D. Waugh likely wouldn’t recognize his family business today; the Mom and Pop shop now boasts a 10,000 square foot showroom and has expanded to include departments for both motorcycle Service and Parts. A nearly hidden stairwell in the back of the showroom leads down to a fully loaded MotorClothes store, which stocks everything from high quality leather jackets - and the more adventurous accompanying chaps - to a collection of diamond Harley baubles sure to please any elegant biker chick.

Ever have the desire to take a stroll down memory lane? Well, at Waugh Enterprises, you can literally walk through such an aptly named wing of the building, which has become a sort of shrine to the founder’s son, Big Daddy Don “Hoss” Waugh’s, collection of car and motorbike memorabilia. A veritable historical cache of every ride with an engine, the collection includes locomotive parts that date from as early as 1831. Even with no working knowledge of motorcycles and classic cars, the sight of these old-fashioned models provides a sense of child-like excitement that strikes across all genders and ages (take it from a 20-something female with no prior interest in anything on wheels). The car models in the shop date back to the 1950s and are much closer in style to the toy versions that 5-year-olds ride in their driveways than to anything found on the interstate today. And the motorcycles, which come in pastel yellow and baby blue hues, include models that have been out of production for several decades.

On Big Daddy’s Chili Blowout day, Waugh Harley Davidson and Orange County are bombarded by visitors making their way – on two or four wheels – to the Route 20 hotspot on the edge of town. Bikers can enjoy discounts of up to 33% throughout the store, a big incentive for bike enthusiasts who put mega bucks into detailing their bikes and their outfits before they’re ready to ride. And to encourage bikers from across the state and country – the dealership had buyers come from as far as Wisconsin on Chili Blowout day – to make the trip to Orange, VA, the Waughs are holding a free raffle for 33 gas cards.

Not in the market for a Harley? No worries; even non-bikers will find the trip worthwhile just for a sample of the delicious chili varieties that have been prepared by the informal chefs – i.e. Harley Davidson employees – at the Waugh shop. Though just 90 miles south of Washington, D.C., Orange is decidedly a proud southern county, and the people here know how to cook. Each of the ten pots of chili being served to eager customers at the Harley Davidson shop is delicious – but each is also subtly distinctive, tantalizing both sweet and spicy taste buds of the happy samplers. Several mouthfuls of the hearty stew are more than enough to make one satisfying meal. And while the samples are offered free of charge, tasters are encouraged to make a small donation in support of their favorite chili; the chef whose chili gets the most dollar votes earns bragging rights at the dealership, and the Waugh family charity – Treasure Chest for Kids – gets all of the proceeds from the event.

“The average Waugh Harley Davidson customer drives past two other dealerships to reach us,” the grandson of the Orange County chapter founder proudly explains. And after just one visit to the store, it’s easy to see why. At Waugh Enterprises, the customer comes first, second, and third; you just can’t fake the kind of solicitude that the owners and staff at Waugh shower upon every person who steps through the front door. While service is essential to the sale of bikes, whose costs sometimes rival that of standard cars, adding a little fun to the mix often earns repeat business and a great reputation in the motorcycle world. The Chili Blowout is the seminal event for October, but the calendar guarantees plenty more entertainment in the months to come. Take a ride along the wending path of Route 20, admire the picket fence pastures that roll right by the Waugh Enterprises Harley Davidson shop, and be sure to stop and say hi to the Waughs or join the party at an annual Beach Bash, Harley Gras, or Big Daddy BBQ. Waugh Harley Davidson: where family values and hog-wild times rule.

Tuesday, October 13, 2009

A Celebration 275 Years in the Making

Bring on the birthday cake. Orange County is celebrating its 275th anniversary this year, and the people are ready to party. How do you throw a birthday bash for an historic county? Well, a jazz quartet, a beverage trailer, and a giant sheet cake are all a good start.

As you cross the railroad tracks that run perpendicular to Main Street, the first strains of choral music reach your ears. The melodious sound emanates from a female a cappella group, standing atop a makeshift stage that has been set up adjacent to the town’s historic train station. The buttercup yellow, clapboard building is host to this evening’s festivities – including food, music, and fireworks – all of which have been planned in honor of Orange’s 2 ¾ centuries of being. As the young singers complete their opening act, which is a global music tribute ending with a Korean ode, four middle-aged men prepare to take to the platform erected in front of the old train tracks. Together, these casually-clad musicians comprise the Blues Farm Band, a local favorite and the star of tonight’s celebration.

A drummer, a bassist, a guitarist, and a vocalist: the musical talents of the Blues Farm Band musicians are simple, but when their sounds combine, the soulful effect is rapturous. Sporting plain, but crisp, clothing, the musicians exude a highly attractive aura of “cool.” Two of the men wear neutral-colored, collared shirts with the top three buttons left conspicuously undone; one sports a plaid flannel top; and the last is clad in a simple gray tee-shirt. All don their worn-in blue jeans with pride. Their down-home demeanor is soothing and somehow highly credible, as if the men seek to embody the soulful principles of blues music that they proclaim so proudly in their song.

As the lead singer of Blues Farm Band runs his lips over his stainless steel harmonica, a calm falls upon the early bird crowd assembled in a quaint side street abutting the still-active railway tracks in town. Patrons flock to the food and beverage stands set up throughout the train station parking lot, and a crowd forms as the hungry celebrants try to decide what their cravings dictate for the evening. Caribbean, Southern-style, and organic food – the latter from a newly minted restaurant in town called “Real Food” – are all available for purchase; a unique mishmash of tastes but apparently a crowd-pleasing selection. To wash down the fried plantains, pork BBQ, or black bean turnover on their plates, many celebrants stop by the beer trailer – a converted RV turned mini bar – where four types of frothy beverages are available straight from the tap.

Sated with food and enlivened by the music, many celebrants at the festival wander throughout the grounds of the event, soaking up the last gentle rays of an early October sun. In the center of a lush little park, young couples recline upon blankets spread across the still verdant lawn. The modern fountain in the center of the play area proves irresistible to the younger children at the event, several of whom delight in traipsing through the water jets that spurt from several small ducts onto a flat, marble surface. Inside the old train station itself, more treats for the mind and mouth await. Walk the width of the one-room building and admire photos that encapsulate the history of the century-old station - built in 1909, serving as an active train depot until the early 1970s, and currently home to the Orange County Department of Tourism and Visitors Bureau.

In the center of the room, a minutely detailed model of the train station rests atop a small wooden platform; the display includes miniature dolls seated astride a bench, which is actually set up beside the jet black railway tracks outside, and an old-fashioned coal caboose, apparently just pulled into the station. Though the impressive display is normally the most popular exhibit in the room, on this particular evening, a crowd has assembled at a different point in the building. At the far end of the station, two beaming volunteers serve generous slices of yellow cake, topped with festive orange and blue icing in honor of the town’s chosen colors, to a line of event-goers that stretches nearly across the room.

A treat of a different sort lies ready to draw spectators back to the deliciously cool outdoors: the brilliant orange and fuchsia sunset that lights up the evening sky as the County’s celebration swings into full gear. As darkness envelops the spectators, all in a state of merriment from engaging in joyful chatter with one another or subdued toe-tapping in accompaniment to the Blues Farm Band, the first fireworks of the night explode in the heavens, bathing the small town in a wave of brilliant light. Here’s to Orange’s first 275 years, clearly just the start of something great.

Wednesday, October 7, 2009

Gordonsville Street Festival: Celebrate Fall, Food, and Old-fashioned Fun

Beneath the cool shade of the railroad track overpass that crisscrosses Main Street, parents and children rest against concrete buttresses and enjoy a variety of treats: kettle corn, pulled pork barbeque, and every kind of bake sale goodie under the sun. At the intersection of North and South Main Streets, a division that occurs at exactly that point in the roadway where the railroad extends above the street, bystanders can enjoy a scenic view of the mile-long street fair that is underway in Gordonsville. An annual tradition in this Orange County hamlet, the festival provides an opportunity for home-town vendors to display their wares, which include everything from semi-precious stone jewelry to pumpkin cake candles. Whether you’re in the market for a piece of local flair or are an avid window shopper for curiosity items, the Gordonsville street festival is a playground for children and adults alike.

Sandwiched between two BBQ vendors set up at either end of Gordonsville’s quaint Main Street are colorful tents manned by perky salespeople, whose shouts of “cotton candy, get your cotton candy,” and “cookies, a quarter a bag,” tempt the pedestrian, hungry from a stroll up and down the street, to pull out their wallets and spring for a treat. To pass the time between food stalls, visitors can peruse the handcrafted items on display upon the wooden tables beneath the tents. Rival jewelry stands, set up across the street from one another, showcase aquamarine beaded bracelets, amethyst earrings, and chunky turquoise necklaces resting atop velvet doilies. More traditional artistry is on display at the B. Edwin Talley Jr. stand, where original photography that captures the historical homes and landmarks of Orange County and the surrounding environs are sold. For budget-minded shoppers, sketches of the high-end photographs can be purchased for a paltry $20, an amazing cost savings for a high-quality piece of artistry. Just to the right of the Talley stand, an al fresco display of vibrant pictures shimmer in the lovely September sunshine. The proud elderly woman seated in front of the exhibition reveals that she and her daughter are the artists behind the portraits, which range from a 4” x 8” miniature frame of a sunflower to a 12” x 24” decorative scene of a harbor in St. Croix.

No authentic street festival would be complete without the homemade foodstuffs that are a hallmark of the fresh ingredients and traditional recipes of the Southern kitchen, and the Gordonsville street festival does not disappoint. At “Uncle Kevin’s Sauce” stand, a variety of sweet and spicy dips are on display, ranging from such traditional concoctions as honey mustard to more creative versions such as spicy parmesan peppercorn. Fittingly, the sauce stand is abutted by “Jennings’s Jellies,” where sweet fruit preserves are sold for a few dollars a jar. If you’ve worked up an appetite from all the sampling you’ve done at these two yummy food stalls, stop for a “giant BBQ turkey leg” from the next vendor in the row. The rarity of this type of gastronomic treat is surpassed only by the deliciousness of the juicy, sweet meat that’s been roasted within aluminum foil in a massive free-standing oven. Meat-lovers in particular have found a paradise at the Gordonsville street festival, where Southern cooking is on display throughout the Main Street strip and the temptation for slow-cooked BBQ is heightened by the delicious smells of pulled pork emanating from stands spaced strategically throughout the festival. If you resist the Tarheel Pig Pickers stand, home of the Original Carolina BBQ, you’re likely to cave for Bill’s Grill Catering Service, whose motto is “Life, It’s What You Do Between Meals.” The BBQ at this second stand is sold-out by midday, so the early bird most definitely gets the worm.

Strolling by the stands of the Gordonsville street festival is a feast for the nose, undoubtedly, but also the eye. Behind the red, gray, and ubiquitous white tents situated along Main Street, the classical brick façade of the small shops and restaurants lining the roadway peek through at enticing intervals. A black wooden sign announcing the location of “Laurie Holladay Interiors: Fine Furniture, Accessories, and Antiques” is suspended on a wrought iron pole that extends from a picturesque row house. Above the “Graves Fine Art Gallery” are four charming window floral beds, from which lovely red and white peonies are sprouting. And below the storefront sign, a painted arch of yellow flowers is suspended upon a sky blue background, demarcating the entryway of the shop. In marked contrast to the makeshift trailer housing the fragrant VA Kettle Corn Company, the refined French eatery, Restaurant Pomme, advertises its grand reopening. As you bid farewell to the festival grounds, the smooth tunes of a jazz trio serenade you from the makeshift stage at the entrance to the street. Toting your hand-carved wooden jewelry box, crystal wind chimes, or powdered sugar funnel cake, you can leave the festival with your wallet intact and your mood boosted after the perfect Saturday afternoon stroll.

Monday, October 5, 2009

September 17th – The lost holiday

September 17th does not have the same cachet as July 4th. In fact, most Americans probably recognize nothing special about this mid-September date. However, any Orange County resident driving through Main Street on this particular day could tell you that the 17th of September is a pivotal date in American history. The 17th is Constitution Day; the day that the founding document of the United States of America was signed by delegates at the Constitutional Convention in 1787. What makes Orange County residents so historically astute? Well, it’s difficult to plead ignorance about Constitution Day when you happen to live in the home town of the Father of the Constitution himself, James Madison. And it’s even more difficult to overlook the brilliant white banners suspended over the main thoroughfare in town, which announce that September 17th is Constitution Day and, even more exciting, that Madison’s home, Montpelier, is open to the public, free of charge, in honor of the occasion.

James Madison is Orange County’s most famous son, and Montpelier, the former president’s beloved home, is considered a local gem; it draws tourists from across the state and country. The appeal of the 18th century historic residence is evident from the moment that the red brick house, seated atop a lush green hill, becomes visible from the mile-long gravel drive leading to the front entrance. Forest green shutters framing each of the two-story home’s fourteen windowpanes and white washed, Ionic columns supporting the triangular roof of the veranda add elegance to the sturdy Madison home. The house presides over an expansive front lawn, which slopes away from the building and down to a white picket fence.

Though the most picturesque view of Montpelier can be had from the lengthy driveway leading to the home, the true tourist experience begins once you round the next bend in the road and reach the Visitor Center. The elegance of the historic home is mirrored in the red brick of the Center, which is given a modern air thanks to the floor-to-ceiling glass windows along the perimeter. Beauty and function are united in this building, where visitors can read about the history of Montpelier, and of the most famous Madison, on pillars imprinted with text or browse the shelves of local jams, copper jewelry, and patterned china in the gift shop. A small movie theater is tucked into the Visitor Center, and guests are encouraged to watch a 12 minute reel about Madison’s Montpelier before embarking upon a tour of the house itself. Breaking all stereotypes about educational films, the movie provides a succinct and engaging overview of the evolution of Montpelier, from a Madison family homestead to a modern archaeological treasure.

Armed with historical knowledge and a new curiosity about the Madison abode, visitors are ushered out of the Center’s theatre and sent along a gravel pathway leading to Montpelier itself. Regal oak and maple trees extend their long limbs over the pebbled pathway, which runs alongside a small wooden bench where visitors can pause to enjoy the scenic beauty of the estate. Situated in the heart of Virginia horse country, Montpelier boasts the type of picturesquely forested terrain that is ideal for the annual hunt races that are synonymous with the location today. The facade of Montpelier faces west, offering a gorgeous panorama of the hills blending to forest, and the woodland leading to the Blue Ridge Mountains.

Despite the temptation to spend a lovely mid-September day roaming the grounds of the Madison estate, the grand house itself offers a singularly fascinating glimpse into the life and times of one of the nation’s most famous Founding Fathers. A tour of the east and west wings of the house, which Madison commissioned to be built during his first presidential term, from 1809-1812, includes access to the drawing room, considered the center of the family’s social life, the library, where Madison drafted his political recommendations in preparation for the Constitutional Convention of 1787, and the study, which is the room where Madison drew his last breath.

Montpelier has achieved national attention for a recent 5-year renovation of the building’s facade; by the completion of the project in 2008, the house had been restored to the architectural style of Madison’s era. Currently, historians are seeking to recover and replace the interior décor that graced the house in the 19th century. The educational value of the authentically restored Montpelier is largely unprecedented within the realm of historic homes; however, the experience of wandering the grounds is a delight beyond compare. Every corner of the estate exudes beauty and charm, and no visitor can leave Montpelier without taking a last, long glance at the presidential homestead, which appears in all its glory as you retrace your drive through the fields and forest of the grounds. History buffs will revel in the stories of the Madison era, but all visitors will find themselves enchanted by the glory, unchanged from past to present, of Montpelier.

Tuesday, September 29, 2009

Montpelier Rising: An Epic Journey to Restore an Historic Home

What do Texans, Iowans, and New Jerseyites share in common? Apparently, an appreciation for the majestic 18th century historic site that is Montpelier, home of James Madison, Fourth President of the United States of America and local son of Orange, VA. These visitors’ license plates are amongst the many interesting, out-of-state tags that can be found on the cars parked along the grassy banks of the gravel path leading to the Madison homestead. Though it is no longer the largest or most ornate house in the county, Montpelier, a relic of colonial and early post-independence American history, has retained an aura of mystique that draws locals and distant tourists alike.

Aside from the historic value of the Madison home, Montpelier has attracted national attention in recent years due to the elaborate $25 million renovation that is currently underway, designed to restore the house to its original appearance. The 2008 celebration of the completion of Phase 1 of this project drew notables from national and state politics, including Supreme Court Justices John Roberts and Samuel Alito and Virginia governor Tim Kaine. Even without the lure of political stars and historic celebrations, Montpelier remains a point of national interest. Traveling in the footsteps of one of America’s founding fathers, not to mention those Texas, Iowa, and New Jersey natives who have found their way to the rural heartland of Virginia, promises to be a treat for the mind and spirit.

The Montpelier experience begins well before you catch a glimpse of the white columned majesty overlooking a lush oval lawn and undulating hills that stretch towards the mountains of the Blue Ridge. Neither local nor tourist can fail to be impressed by the beauty of the landscape of Route 15, the two-lane highway leading you to the gem of Montpelier. Central Virginia’s distinctive rolling hills entice the eye, offering breathtaking glimpses of the foreground to the Appalachian Mountain range, which forms the western vista of Orange County. A mix of thrilling curves and scenic straightaways along the highway amplifies the impressiveness of the farms sprinkled throughout the countryside, as unadulterated rural landscapes give way to log-fenced estates.

Montpelier’s current address is officially known as Montpelier Station, VA, and the location’s namesake, a small, pale yellow rail stop, is the closest neighbor to the historic home. When traveling from the town of Orange, drivers can catch a glimpse of the charming, white-roofed railway stop, a curiosity-piquing highlight along the route. Despite the pleasant distractions of the landscape, it is hard to miss the heavily wooded turn to the Montpelier estate, for multiple forest green signs are placed along the roadside, announcing the mileage to Montpelier and the direction to turn to find your way to the estate.

Just beyond the white wooden gates of the entryway lie two mini guard booths; the employees manning the booths are a critical resource for the Montpelier tourist. The last leg of the journey to the historic home is the most complex, though also the most picturesque. Follow the smooth asphalt of an unmarked road, which leads through the heavily forested estate of Montpelier, over a small creek, and past several pastures dotted with grazing horses, directly to the front lawn of the great house itself.

While the first glimpse of Montpelier, a lovely red-brick house with hunter green shutters and a grand portico ensconced within Ionic, white-washed columns, is extremely pleasing, the true appeal of the historic home lies within the walls of the estate. To gain access to the home, and to the historical knowledge within, follow the road beyond the next bend, from which the Visitors Center, a modern accompaniment to the Montpelier estate, comes into view. The information center for the estate is standard in function but exemplary in design and content, striking a critical balance between mirroring the style of Montpelier itself and adding a modern bent to avoid the appearance of artificiality. Floor-to-ceiling windows provide a visually appealing entryway to the center, which houses both an educational wing and a gift shop.

The effect of the sunlight mirrors the dual uses of the room, for it is both functional and playful. As visitors seek out a crash course in the life and times of the Madison family, an ad hoc lesson that can be attained by reading the text printed upon plaster columns that are arranged throughout the left side of the Visitors Center, sunlight illuminates the unique textual display. Across the linoleum floor of the Visitor Center lie pedestals on which numerous gift displays are arranged. The gift shop sells a wide assortment of mementos, ranging from china embossed with the official Madison toile pattern to unakite jewelry, made from the state gem of Virginia.

The sunlight filtering through this wing of the building illuminates glass ornaments featuring hand-painted images of Montpelier and jars of homemade local jams and jellies, catching the visitor’s eye and luring them to the cash register. Within a small theater in the interior of the Visitor’s Center, a twelve minute movie exploring the history of the Madison family and describing the contemporary renovations occurring at Montpelier plays continuously. More than just a savvy way to lure elementary school students into a historical discussion, the short film is a highly enjoyable entrée to the 18th and 19th century world that lies within the walls of Montpelier - and the visitor’s imagination.

After the film concludes with a series of snapshots of the modern Montpelier at its most triumphant, during the 2008 ceremony to celebrate the conclusion of the first phase of renovations, the spectators are ushered out the back entrance of the theater and instructed to follow a gravel path to the Madisons’ home. Having successfully navigated the roadways leading to Montpelier and the intellectual and commercial lures of the Visitors Center, the exciting conclusion to the hunt for history awaits.

On a quiet day, when the pebbled path to Montpelier is empty and the woods leading to the home reverberate with the sounds of nature rather than schoolchildren’s voices, the past and present seem to blend imperceptibly. In this fleeting state of timelessness, you can sense the peaceful aura that must have pervaded the Madison estate in 1765, when the President’s father, James Madison, Sr., moved his family into the newly completed home. Scaling the five concrete stairs leading to the veranda of the Madison home and turning to face the verdant lawn gently sloping into a vista of rolling hillsides is a thrilling part of the Montpelier experience.

When the central set of cream double doors is opened, a guide wearing muted shades of gray, offset by a red kerchief bearing the seal of Montpelier, welcomes you to the home of President James Madison. Though they break the aura of historical intimacy that is established between the traveler and his surroundings during the private walk through the forest, the guides offer more than adequate compensation: insight into the living quarters and the life of the fourth president of the United States, his charming wife, Dolley, and the extended Madison family.

To the immediate left of the glass rimmed entryway is the elegant Madison drawing room, which was, and continues to be, the focal point of Montpelier. During James and Dolley’s time, the drawing room served as the entertaining center of the house, where the homeowners and their guests would retire after dinner to enjoy a game of cards or to be regaled by the tunes of the piano forte that was housed in this spot. Today, the points of interest in the room are the replicas of paintings that would have graced the walls during Madison’s day.

To the right of the fireplace hangs a duplicate of the sole painting that remains intact from the Madison home, entitled “Pan, Youth, and Nymphs” and depicting the mythological characters in the title. Adjoining the pivotal drawing room is the sitting room of the matriarch of Montpelier, Mrs. Madison. The President’s mother lived to the age of 97; she died a mere seven years before her famous son. In addition to the main sitting room, Mother Madison resided over a private bedroom at the back of the house. Together, these first three rooms comprise the near entirety of the east wing of Montpelier, an addition that James Madison commissioned in 1812, during his first term as President.

While the first floor was used for entertaining the public, the second story of Montpelier was where much of Madison’s private work was conducted; the work that would be so influential in the formation of the United States Constitution. Three bedchambers dominate the upper floor, one of which includes access to a lovely terrace, from which the domestic slaves’ quarters and the estate’s two outdoor kitchens, one for Dolley and one for her mother-in-law, are visible. One of the bedrooms remains in an intentionally unfinished state, so as to display the interior structure of the house.

The focal point of the second story is undoubtedly Madison’s library, where the President spent the winter of 1786 preparing for the Constitutional Convention that would be held in Philadelphia the following summer. After studying the established political institutions and governing principles of the European nation-states, Madison formulated a prescription for national governance, which was later dubbed the Virginia Plan. This representational model became incorporated into the compromise that formed our bicameral national legislature, with representation in the House of Representatives apportioned according to state population and in the Senate distributed equally amongst the states.

Despite the pivotal role that Madison played in the formulation of the U.S. Constitution, including his proposal of a Bill of Rights, he rejected the title of “Father of the Constitution,” which has since become synonymous with his name. The ever modest Madison asserted that the Constitution arose from the collaboration of many statesmen – and should be recognized as such. Madison’s political career skyrocketed following the Constitutional Convention; after serving as a key advisor to President George Washington and as Secretary of State to Thomas Jefferson, Madison was elected president in 1808, then reelected in 1812.

The tour of Montpelier concludes where Madison’s life also did, in the President’s bedroom in the west wing of the house. On June 28, 1836, President Madison issued his last words to his niece, responding to her inquiries into his health by stating that he was experiencing “nothing more than a change in state of mind,” and immediately passed away. The eloquently moving words of a leader imbue the now sparse room with a power that penetrates not only the essence of the house but the soul of the visitor.

As you leave Montpelier and retrace your steps across the pebbled path, en route to the comforts of the Visitors Center for a snack in the Courtyard Café, a memento from the gift shop, or a last look at the history of the Madison homestead, savor the refurbished authenticity of the estate. The home has passed through a variety of hands, and undergone an equal number of alterations, in the intervening 173 years since President Madison’s death. After being sold by Dolley Madison in 1844, in an effort to pay off the Madison debt that remained even after the President’s memoirs were sold for $30,000, Montpelier’s transformation began.

At the turn of the 20th century, William and Annie DuPont purchased Montpelier, choosing to preserve the grounds but also to enlarge the house. In 1984, the heirs of the last direct DuPont descendent, Marion DuPont Scott, endowed Montpelier to the National Trust for Historic Preservation, returning the home to the public care. In 2000, the Montpelier Foundation assumed stewardship of the estate, and in 2003 a pivotal, and ongoing, restoration was begun. Though the architectural restoration of the house was completed in 2008, two phases of decorative refurbishment remain.

In the interim, Montpelier continues to draw visitors from the East Coast to the plains states, and its trustees continue to invite special guests for the annual September 17th celebration of Constitution Day, when our founding document was signed. This year, former wife of the Vice President and children’s book author Lynn Cheney graced the halls of Montpelier and read to 250 schoolchildren from the impressive porch of the great house. Next year…well, next year remains a mystery to be unveiled, along with the original coats of paint on the walls of Montpelier, the archaeological remains of the Dolley Madison kitchen, and the 17 missing mantelpieces of the Madison home. Mark your calendars now; the excitement of Montpelier lives on in the halls of the great house and the minds of the hundreds of annual visitors.

Monday, September 28, 2009

Somerset Steam & Gas Pasture Party: Unparalleled Venue, Undeniable Fun

The three John Deere tractors puttering down the highway are the first indication that you’re getting close. Just a quarter mile further down the two-lane country road and the gleaming, twin silver silos of the Somerset Farm come into view, marking the gateway to a field full of grandiose farm equipment representing nearly a century of technological development. White wooden letters suspended across the triangular, rooftop peak of an aging barn announce the sponsor of today’s pasture party: the “Somerset Steam and Gas Engine Association.” Appropriately enough, a trail of steam rises from a locomotive, detached from any accompanying train cars, which is being driven across the miniature hills and depressions of the pasture by a young man in a conductor’s cap. The steady chugging of the train envelops the field in an aura of antiquity, creating a surprisingly calming refuge.

As the sounds of mechanized equipment whirring to life are amalgamated into the unique musical score of a field party, the ear and eye are drawn in several directions at once. Walk straight through the entryway of a wrought iron, maroon gate that opens onto the main event and you’ll find yourself at an old-fashioned sawmill demonstration. Surprisingly agile, work-worn hands load 2” wide, raw wooden boards - piled three high – onto a conveyor belt that whisks the beams towards a circular saw, which spins at such a high velocity that the hooked edges of the rim disappear into a hazy gray ring of movement. As the saw hits its target - the dead-center of the boards - the beams are quickly, cleanly sliced in half. Though this 19th century sawmill model was once an impressive power tool, it has become a hydro-powered toy display for the dozens of assembled onlookers.

Seeking something a little edgier? Follow the crowd to the red clay demo strip where a lineup of tractors awaits. The farmers aboard these imposing, 7-foot machines rev their engines as they take to the track, slowly but surely coaxing the tractors back upon their rear wheels and causing the front axles of the machines to lift off the ground, still spinning rapidly and revealing the full force of the machinery. While admiring fans burst into applause at the feat, the official event judge offers a play-by-play assessment of the monster wheelie; contestants will be judged by the smoothness of the maneuver and the duration of the trick.

On a track of a different sort, miniature ponies parade around a circular ring, to the delight of the children who sit proudly upon the obedient animals. Pony rides are not the only place where beasts compete with machines for the attention of the crowds at the pasture party; several two-horse wagons moving rapidly through the crowds assembled throughout the expansive field of Somerset Farm are packed with children and parents enjoying a country hay ride. Aside from providing another form of entertainment for the wagon riders attending this annual celebration of old-fashioned mechanics, these beasts of burden are representative of the oldest form of engine known to man.

The motor and heavy equipment displays found throughout the field provide a timeline of more recent developments in the realm of modern machinery, all of which have long surpassed the original form of horsepower. The history of the modern engine begins with the kerosene Witte, a “headless” machine circa 1920, which was one of the first pieces of machinery to replace manpower as the force used to perform such farm chores as threshing wheat. Slightly more contemporary machines on display include a band organ from the 1930s, which churns out sweet windpipe tunes, and a 1950s-era, hand-powered “reel” motor, once used for mowing grass.

The Somerset Steam and Gas Pasture Party, where education and entertainment are seamlessly interwoven, offers a rare opportunity to directly connect with a unique piece of American history. After taking in the machine demonstrations, chatting with the friendly experts who are willing and eager to discuss their antique equipment, and enjoying a ride aboard the kiddie cars pulled by All Terrain Vehicles or the old-fashioned horse and buggies (depending on your age of course), pause a moment to savor the feast for the senses at the Somerset Farm. Indulge in the traditional fairground treats of hot dogs, hamburgers, and the local favorite – rib eye steak sandwiches. Or treat yourself to a homemade milkshake from the 4-H concession stand. No fresher, more decadent, treat can be found than these vanilla, chocolate, and strawberry shakes, made from milk culled straight from the surrounding central Virginia dairy farms. The pastoral scene of a quaint farmhouse, bordered by verdant fields and distant forests that stretch clear to the edge of the pale blue horizon on an early September afternoon, calms the mind, while the thrill of a down-home pasture party excites the senses. Come experience for yourself what the locals already know – life’s just a little more vibrant in Orange, VA.