Robinson's Tavern and Grill: Never Judge a Book by Its Cover

Masters of deception: the term is hardly ever applied to restaurateurs, but you can’t help but think of this cliché when you walk into Robinson’s Tavern and Grill in Orange, VA. To the right of the restaurant's entryway, a vacuum bag salesroom; to the left, an Exxon fueling station. But once you wrestle the solid oak front doors open and step into the strip mall eatery, you’re immediately transported beyond the humble exterior of this new addition to the local restaurant scene. Your expectations for the evening will rise three-fold when the pleasant attendant waiting behind the dark wood paneled hostess stand leads you around a corner and into a dining area comprised of about 15 simple tabletops covered with crisp, white linen cloths. The crackle and glow from a blazing fireplace built into the wall opposite the diners makes me almost grateful for the early chill and icy rain that have descended upon central Virginia, so cozy is the mood created within this intimate dining room. After settling into a comfortable four-top table abutting a decorative bookcase that spans the width of the room, I force myself to stop peeping at the rustic and Civil War era décor of the room long enough focus upon the critical task at hand: choosing food and wine for the night.

It turns out I’ve gotten serious about my dining duty just in the nick of time, for no sooner have I finished perusing the extended wine list than my dinner guest and I are greeted by our server for the evening. Providing high-quality service is obviously a point of pride at Robinson’s, for the greeting that we receive at the table is just as warm as the welcome that came from the hostess when we first entered the building. To the standard opener – what can I get y’all to drink? (uttered in a smooth Southern drawl), we have a ready answer; a glass of Turning Leaf White Zinfandel ($7; $18 per bottle) and a Diet Coke, no ice. With the drink order out of the way and the server on a beverage run, we hunker down with the menu in hand and peruse our dinner options for the evening. The restaurant specializes in fine quality American fare, so the selections include prime cuts of beef, a variety of seafood options, and several intriguing chicken dishes. Amongst the comprehensive menu items are a Grilled Rib-Eye or New York Strip Steak, available in 8, 10, or 12 oz portions; a surf and turf inspired, crabmeat-stuffed Beef Filet; grilled salmon; a seafood platter of broiled or fried flounder, jumbo shrimp, and fresh scallops; and crabmeat stuffed flounder or shrimp. In addition to the meat and potatoes spectrum, Robinson’s menu includes a handful of pasta dishes, ranging from the traditional chicken parmesan with spaghetti to the gourmet seafood linguine.

Though we’ve been mulling over the menu for a good ten minutes, it’s extremely difficult to settle upon a dish for the evening; it’s a good problem to have, and I don’t lament any indecision sparked by an overly appetizing array of menu options. Through careful analysis and a semi-haphazard process of elimination, I decide to bypass the evening specials – a tough decision considering my personal love of prime rib, which is one of the Friday night highlights, along with a carnivorous trifecta of filet of beef, lamb, and pork medallions. I even eschew the pasta dishes, including chicken fettuccine alfredo, spaghetti with a meaty Bolognese sauce, and shrimp and scallops linguine in a traditional al oglio (i.e. garlic and oil sauce), all of which tempt the carbaholic in me, per usual. When our server returns bearing beverages and a round baguette of fresh baked bread, I have my menu closed, confident in my request for a classic favorite with a twist – Chicken Chesapeake, a whole chicken breast stuffed with crabmeat, Smithfield ham, and spinach and topped with a tomato cream sauce. Each entrée is accompanied by a choice of soup or salad, a starch, and the vegetable of the day, providing a very hearty meal for a very reasonable price, with entrees ranging from $15 to $22 dollars.

With the tough job of ordering out of the way, it’s finally time to revel in the gustatory and aesthetic treat that is Robinson’s Tavern. With the first bite of warm, pleasantly doughy, fresh-baked bread, I’m sold on this spot. The mini loaf of guilty pleasure bread is gone before the appetizer arrives, allowing us to focus our attention on the crabmeat stuffed mushrooms ($8) that are served atop a bed of plain lettuce and displayed in a miniature white tureen. While the dish includes large chunks of succulent crab, the meat and mushrooms are sadly lacking in taste. The earthy mushroom undertone is the most noticeable flavor in the appetizer, and the normally decadent treat is devoid of its traditionally robust flavor – typically found in a slightly salty and sweet, garlic-based glaze that is absent from this version. The arrival of our soups helps improve the mood at the table, as this next round of dinner is much more satisfying than the appetizer. I eagerly dive – spoon-first of course – into a cup of French Onion Soup, nudging through a layer of warm, melted mozzarella cheese and a thick slice of moist crouton into the perfectly seasoned broth beneath. The New England Clam Chowder, the other soup option of the day, fails to impress in the same manner as the French Onion. The creamy dish does have a nice flavor, with a fresh clam taste that is complemented with just the right amount of salty undertone, but the chowder is a bit thin and leaves you lamenting the insufficient amount of signature clams in the dish.

There is a pleasant pace to the dinner service, which allows the diner sufficient time to savor each of the dishes but provides a steady flow of food, and just as we are ready to push the soup platters to the side, our pleasant waitress arrives with the main course. The plate in front of me contains a very generously-sized chicken breast, accompanied by a side of red skin, scalloped potatoes and a medley of broccoli, cauliflower, and round carrot slices. On the second plate, two massive crab cakes dominate half of the available platter space and are complemented nicely by a mound of vibrant orange, mashed sweet potatoes, along with the standard vegetable of the day. We dig into the food, eager to see how this next dish compares to its predecessors; fortunately, the meal continues to take a turn for the better with the arrival of the entrées.

The Chicken Chesapeake includes a delightful medley of flavors, with a fresh seafood taste, compliments of the perfectly seasoned crab meat, which pairs nicely with the pleasantly salted, thinly sliced ham and the moist, rich spinach. The rich tomato cream sauce that was drizzled liberally upon the chicken, which was admittedly slightly drier than ideal, was the perfect complement to the savory amalgamation of tastes in the dish. I was equally impressed with the generously portioned crab cakes, which were 90% smooth, succulent crab meat and 10% well-seasoned breading. Unfortunately, the side dishes paled in comparison to the scrumptious entrees, though the bar was set rather high. The thinly sliced scalloped potatoes were dusted with a creamy topping, however the signature cheese sauce lacked enough of the key ingredient. And the mashed sweet potatoes had a pleasantly sugary undertone, but the consistency was a less-than-ideal level of mushy, with lumps of starch spread throughout. As for the vegetables, the bland taste was far from sufficient to elevate the food from its traditional underdog status at the dinner table.

Due to the abundance of food presented in accompaniment to the entrees, the dessert selection at Robinson’s Tavern could easily be overlooked by thoroughly sated diners at the end of their meals. However, to ignore the sweet factor would be to miss out on a signature Robinson’s dining experience. The desserts are baked fresh on the premises, and though the selection is therefore somewhat limited, the quality more than compensates for the quantity. Too full to do more than share a slice of decadence, my dinner guest and I decided to split a piece of chocolate cake with white icing ($5) – the other dessert selections that night included a Boston Crème Pie and a slice of cake à la ice cream sundae. Our piece of moist, three-layer chocolate cake had a light color and a lovely milk chocolate flavor; it was slightly sweetened in a way that was perfectly suited to the sugary essence of the perfectly smooth, white icing. The side of whipped cream and sliced strawberries provided a creamy balance to the deliciously sweet dish.

Savoring the last of the edible showpieces at Robinson’s gives you the opportunity to appreciate the classic charm of the dining room, which is decorated in antique country couture. Beige valances embroidered with black velvet fleur de lis emblems are draped across two sets of expansive windowpanes. Gauze curtains in a paler hue of taupe flow down to the floor. In the evening dusk, the soft light emitted by the old-fashioned, gilded table lanterns exudes a warmth that is much more potent than the actual heat of the flame. Light and shadow play upon the white-washed walls of the room, alternately illuminating and concealing the black and white photos of Civil War generals and their wives. Timeless taste is the motif at Robinson’s Tavern and Grill, so feast your eyes and your appetite at this welcome addition to the Orange County restaurant repertoire.