Friday, November 27, 2009

Horses and Champagne and Canapés Oh My!: Montpelier Celebrates the 75th Running of the Hunt Races

A distant rumble; the pounding pulsates through the earth, reverberates through the leaf-covered grounds of Montpelier. Suddenly, a pack of horses appears at the crest of a hill. Three, four stallions at the front of the herd clear a two-foot hedge in near-synchronized fashion, the muscles on the majestic chestnut and cobalt beasts straining beneath their glossy coats. Close behind, a tight-knit cluster of nine horses approaches on the heels of the front-runners, clearing the jump in as much unison as the width of the obstacle allows. Finally, four stragglers emerge: jockeys swinging whips, horses straining muscles, man and beast trying desperately to advance on the leaders.

Hundreds of spectators have arrived at Montpelier for the annual hunt races, plowing through the gravel lane leading to the race grounds in their SUVs and pick-up trucks, which are fully loaded with tailgating staples: delicious food and liquor bottles. The behemoth vehicles invade the pristine fields of President James Madison’s family home, abandoning the unpaved drive that leads through the grounds and taking right to the grassy hillsides of the estate. A racing trail, about ten feet in diameter and enclosed within a wooden, two-tier fence, forms the perimeter of the event grounds; during each of the day’s six races, men, women, and children alike rush to the fences to watch the horses gallop past in a blur of black and brown coats, marked by flashes of vibrant purples, reds, and greens from the jockeys’ outfits. As at any sporting event, seating is a pivotal part of the viewing experience – and by seating, I mean standing room at the fences. Parking spaces adjacent to the racetrack are sold for a premium price, but the luxury of being able to watch the action from the comfort of your own Suburban entices many attendees to shell out a little extra cash.

In a Southern state founded upon tradition and social mores, the Montpelier hunt races represent much more than a mere sporting event; the races are the pivotal soiree of the year for Orange County. Walking past the seemingly endless rows of tailgaters, you witness a wide spectrum of society; from the socialites dressed in designer chinos and cashmere sweaters to the country boys sporting denim jeans and well-worn boots. Even if you’ve secured a premium spot at the rails for the hunt races (which start at $200 per plot), you should take a stroll around the grounds of Montpelier and enjoy both the beautiful scenery and the vibrant socializing that are the high points of the races. Though there’s a sort of cliquish mentality to the festivities, with event-goers clustered into sections that are representative of their pocketbooks – which determine where they can afford to park – a general sense of good cheer unites all the attendees.

Though the first race doesn’t begin until 12:30 p.m., the gates at Montpelier open at 9:30 a.m., allowing early birds to settle in and enjoy a mimosa (or several mimosas, as the case often is) before the opening event. The child-like thrill that comes from watching the mighty horses sprint around the turns of the raceway and propel themselves over hedgerows and wooden jumps constructed throughout the course is wonderful; but the horses take a second place spot to the socializing that is the main draw of Montpelier. For tailgating enthusiasts, Montpelier is the ideal event: all of the adrenaline-spiked excitement of a sporting event, with much less of those endless hours of actual sport involved. In fact, the spectators have their own athletic endeavor to master: a test of endurance in eating, drinking, and merrymaking for up to 8+ hours. And many take full advantage of the bucolic scenery and the festive atmosphere of Montpelier, lingering on the grounds long after the last race is run at 4:00 p.m.; spending up to two extra hours enjoying a state of complete leisure.

And why not extend the day’s festivities, especially since the entry cost for Montpelier is no paltry sum, once tickets, both personal and parking, and those little necessities like programs – without which one is left to wander the grounds in a state of confusion – are factored into the mix. To gain access to the grounds of Montpelier for the hunt races, every individual above 12 years of age must purchase a general admission ticket, which costs $15. Add to that the price of a parking pass, which is required for every vehicle entering the premises; the most basic sticker for general parking runs a rate of $20. This pass guarantees you just one thing: the ability to park your car in an outlying field on the hunt racing grounds. Two massive pastures are transformed into parking lots for this special occasion and cars are shepherded into the fields by attendants, who can be found resting against the old wooden railings along the perimeter of the grassy knolls. Need another reason to take advantage of the early gate opening? Consider the fact that latecomers – and by late I mean noon, before the first of seven races is run – will find themselves forced to park about a mile away from the horse track, then walk the long, graveled, hilly path that leads to the main event.

Though the hunt races are ostensibly the sporting event of note on every first Saturday of November, there is another, perhaps more serious competition that rages amongst the crowd gathered at Montpelier: the Dolley Madison Tailgate Competition. Though this particular First Lady, wife of former President and Montpelier proprietor James Madison, would not have tailgated in the contemporary fashion, she is still considered one of the finest entertainers to have graced the White House. In her honor, current Montpelier visitors are encouraged to out-compete one another in a test of tabletop display making. Competitors fill out an entrant card upon arriving at the grounds and then proceed to turn wooden, makeshift tables into Versailles-worthy, decorative spreads. Do gilded, four-pronged candelabras really belong at a trumped-up pasture party? That’s debatable, but the exaggerated decorating feats are undoubtedly fun to compare. Whether you want to indulge in your own tailgating spread or just admire others’, don’t forget to take a break from the social action and watch at least a few of those races. Just listen for that rumble of hooves and try to tear yourself away from the hors d’oeuvres every now and then; otherwise, you risk leaving the races uttering those classic words: horses, what horses?

Camelot Revisited: Horton Vineyards serves up fruity vino in a fairy tale winery

On one side of the country lane: three single-story, wood frame houses with heavy duty pick-up trucks parked in the gravel driveways; on the other: a castle. Now, I’m not talking Versailles or Buckingham Palace here, but the turreted building presiding over an acre of grape vines counts as royal digs as far as Orange County, Virginia is concerned. Welcome to Horton Vineyards, an innovative winery that is making great strides towards restoring the prestige of viticulture in the Old Dominion. The family-owned estate, the pride and joy of Dennis and Sharon Horton, was opened in 1988; the 55 acre manor that began as a fledgling venture has now become a winery known for its innovative wine flavors. On a vineyard that has grown to 112 acres, the Hortons introduced the Viognier grape – a new arrival to the state of Virginia – and rejuvenated the Native grape varietal.

Regardless of whether you’re wooed by the vineyard specialties or not, the novelty of the Horton estate makes a trip to this Central Virginia winery a must for anyone living in the county – or the state for that matter. If the young couple from Texas – posing for pictures in front of the dozens of rows of grapevines – can find their way to this intimate little winery, there’s no reason for any semi-local not to make the drive down scenic Route 33. The Sunday drive is a favorite pastime in Orange County, where sparsely populated country lanes and pastoral scenes, complete with spotted Holsteins and hay bales, prove irresistible to anyone who loves their car or loves their Southern scenery. And on my trip to Horton Vineyards, I had to remind myself to keep a careful eye out for my destination – and not be lured by the thrill of the drive to continue on towards Charlottesville, and my alma mater UVA.

Luckily, it’s hard to miss a turreted, stone edifice in the midst of a rural landscape – did I mention that this winery is a wannabe castle? Not to belabor the point, but the building’s exterior is most definitely one of the biggest selling points for the vineyard. There’s something romantic about walking into a place that looks like the private residence of someone rich and famous; a place where you get to be the guest of honor and have staff serve you fantastical homemade wines. Unfortunately, the mystical character of the winery is marred by the big canvas sign that is planted outside, advertising Horton’s new chocolate wine, XOCO. Smart marketing strategy, maybe; attractive, definitely not. But the monogrammed gate marking the entrance to the vineyard goes a long way towards redeeming the aesthetic appeal of Horton’s; the teal-plated H and V letters on either side of the wrought-iron gate are classy without an air of pretentiousness.

The gorgeous façade and elegant detailing of the Horton estate – note the theatrical mask above the wooden, double door entrance and the carved wooden lions in the center of said doors – leave you with high expectations for the wine-tasting to follow. When you enter the cramped interior of the winery, however, you sadly realize that the highlights of Horton’s exist solely on the exterior. The stone-floored corridor of the building leads to the gift shop/tasting room on the right and ends in a glass-encased bookshelf full of accolades (the trophy and plaque variety) just to the left of the entryway. I’m sure many of those tasting awards are well-deserved, including the commendation from President Clinton, praising the selection of red and white wines that the Hortons supplied for an official state dinner held in honor of the Brazilian Ambassador and his wife. But the house wines are best enjoyed in an outside venue, because what the Horton vineyard boasts in wine flavor, it dearly lacks in ambience.

The Horton winery is deceptively grand from without, and I’m quite surprised to find that a single, moderately sized room comprises the entirety of the first floor – the only level open to the public. The pale yellow paint on the 20-foot walls lends an unpleasant pallor to the room, which is flooded with knick-knacks and row upon row of clothing and household goods emblazoned with puns about wine: like the tee-shirt with the words “Well red” emblazoned in glitter beneath an image of a glass of, what else, red wine. These witticisms may provide a fun read for the wine tasters perusing the gift shop goods, but the shirts, coasters, and ceramic dishes bearing these trite one-liners don’t appear to be flying off of the shelves. Aside from the imprinted objects, the other big draws in the shop are the homegrown Virginia peanuts, available in every variety of sweet and savory seasoning imaginable. Even the plainest peanut – a roasted, salted version – is rather appealing when dressed up in commemorative cans bearing the mascots of several state colleges: University of Virginia, Virginia Tech, George Mason and James Madison University all make the cut.

After winding your way through the miniature gift shop, which is a bit cluttered due to the lack of space and the overabundance of wine de-corkers, you can sidle up to the tasting bar on the far side of the room. The Sunday afternoon crowd is light, so there’s ample room for the wine sippers to spread themselves out along the L-shaped wooden counter. On the other side of the bar, five employees stand armed with bottles of house wine, ready to pour a sip of the Route 33 Red, Viognier (Spicy Rhone White), Pear Fruit Wine, Spirit (a Commemorative Jamestown Series, dry White Wine), and that much publicized XOCO (chocolate dessert wine). The Horton name is synonymous with fruity wine, and on this score, the vineyard does not disappoint. The presentation at Horton’s is undeniably low-key, perhaps verging on the overly casual - which leaches some of the glamour from the imagined fairy tale experience of wine tasting in a look-a-like castle. But once you get a few sips of the house wines in your system, you’ll be ready to forgive most of the shortfalls in the interior décor. True, you might not be ready to spring for a bedazzled shirt on your way out of the winery, but you’ll leave with a smile on your face and maybe even a bottle of fruit-infused wine under your arm.

Tuesday, November 17, 2009

Fresh and Fabulous: Marshall Farms Corner puts a healthy twist on comfort food favorites

Despite the bold maroon signs and the giant decorative wine bottle on the building’s exterior, Marshall Farms Corner is easy to miss – a hidden treasure in plain sight. Ignorance is not bliss when it comes to Marshall Farms, whose low profile and well-kept secret status is a disservice to travelers on Route 20 or 522 who whiz by the local gem, unaware of the tasty treats that lie right off the intersection of two central Virginia thoroughfares. Connected to a small auto service shop and housed in a former convenience store, Marshall Farms has an unassuming profile; if you’re an out-of-towner, or even from a different county, and unless you happen to get a flat tire on your trip through this rural Virginia heartland, you could easily miss a taste of the local delicacies lining every shelf and countertop of the Corner.

What Marshall Farms loses due to its low profile, it more than makes up for with the taste of its products. A word of advice: say cheese please. The Marshall Farms Corner story starts with the Marshall Farms dairy, where all-natural, organic cheese is produced from pasture-raised cattle. Sure the health benefits of fresh, non-preservative based foods are becoming increasingly well-known, but without taste, this recent food phenomenon is bound to fizzle. One bite of the Garlic Parsley Chive Cheddar, though, and you’ll be a convert to the local and organic food movements. Rich, creamy, and bursting with savory Italian and fresh herb seasonings, this cheese is extremely satisfying and quickly addictive. If you’re looking for a flavor with less flair or more bite, there are seven other types of dairy bliss to tempt your palate. Try the basic white cheddar for pure and simple cheesy delight, or add a different flavor, like bacon chive or caraway, to this staple cheese. On the other end of the flavor spectrum, the spicier “Jack” cheese is available as Pepper Jack, Monterey Jack, Dill Monterey Jack, or the show-stopper: Monterey Jack with Sun-Dried Tomato & Basil.

While you could make a full meal – or two or three – from the cheese selections alone, there’s plenty of delectable flavor combinations in the sandwich, panini, and salad options available on the Corner lunch and dinner menu. Pretty much every classic sandwich creation is available at Marshall Farms, from the tuna salad melt to the Reuben (including the Reuben’s latest offspring, the Rachel - with sliced turkey instead of corned beef - and the Twisted Sister - with sliced turkey plus corned beef). Newly introduced panini options include a nice range of meat and cheese combinations, such as Turkey Bacon Swiss, Roast Beef Mozzarella, the Pizza Panini (tomato, mozzarella cheese, and pepperoni), the Grilled Veggie Panini (hummus, green peppers, tomato, onions and Swiss), and the sub shop staple, the grilled steak and cheese. To enjoy the delectable Boar’s Head meats and Marshall Farms’ cheeses in a little bit lighter way, try an Italian or Chef Salad. And for vegetarian diners, there are plenty of satisfying dishes available, including the Happy Veggie Grilled Sandwich (hummus, tomato, cucumber, green peppers, onions and cheddar grilled on rye), the Veggie Quesadilla, or the Veggie Reuben (with tomato instead of meat).

For those lucky enough to know about the delicious Marshall Farms Corner, you have two important responsibilities. 1) Tell your friends…you know you would want them to do the same for you. 2) Buy enough treats to share with your buddies, just in case you happen to be coming from out of town and need something to tide you over until your next Orange County food run. Lining the pale green walls of the country café interior of Marshall Farms Corner are shelves full of local goodies, including wines from Central Virginia vineyards and country-style preserves and butters – as in apple butter, pumpkin butter, etc. Make your own gift basket with a selection of those natural, organic Marshall Farms cheeses; preserves made from scratch, sealed in glass jars, and topped with adorable, plaid cloth covers; and Barboursville’s Vineyard’s finest varietals. And if you’ll be delivering these charming wicker baskets of goodies soon, add a brownie or two to the mix; you’re guaranteed to win the heart of any chocolate lover, or even liker. On my first visit to Marshall Farms, the woman behind the counter advised me to try the decadent treat, saying it was the Corner’s signature food item. I owe this woman no small thanks for the hint; the moist, chewy brownie, topped with rich chocolate frosting and a few shaved white chocolate swirls, was simply amazing. If pie is more your style, you’ll find at least three fresh varieties daily, such as apple, cherry, or pecan. And the quickly disappearing cheesecake and chocolate cake on display looked perfectly delectable; too bad a dessert sampling doesn’t constitute a well-rounded meal…

While most locals run to Marshall Farms to pick up a sandwich or grab a cup of Green Mountain brewed coffee, it’s worth your while to dine in and enjoy a moment of peace and quiet as you savor your treat of choice at one of the simple, solid oak kitchen tables laid out in the dining area of this improvised restaurant. Peer through the red-curtained windows that allow lovely sunlight to filter into the cozy deli and watch the cars - actually, pickup trucks for the most part in this neck of the woods – fly across the intersection of Route 20 and Route 522. Sure you can pull out the laptop and check your email (for the umpteenth time today) using the complimentary WiFi service; but the beauty of Marshall Farms is the down home food and laid back vibe that this country hideaway dishes out generously. The best thing to take away from Marshall Farms Corner: a new state of mind.

Sunday, November 1, 2009

Of Villains and Violence: Four County Players deserves accolades for Othello


I kiss'd thee ere I kill'd thee; no way but this / Killing myself to die upon a kiss" (Othello, Act V, Scene ii). A hush falls over the audience as the Moor of William Shakespeare’s Othello inflicts a mortal wound upon himself, falling dead upon the body of his murdered wife, Desdemona. Reveling in the cathartic spirit of the moment, the audience lets the profound sadness and wretched display of humanity penetrate the atmosphere at Orange, Virginia’s Four County Players, a theater company that puts on an entertaining and emotional rendition of one of Shakespeare’s most poignant tragedies. Every member of the cast demonstrates a marked affinity for Shakespearean English, adding linguistic beauty to a passionately acted plot. Not bad for a small town community theater; not bad at all.

While the quality of the actors is enough to please the most ardent drama lovers, the quirky ambience of the Four County playhouse and the intimate stage setting provide ample appeal to the casual theater-goer as well. A renovated school house now serves as the local community theater, and there is something inherently exciting about walking into an old schoolroom after dark. Contemporary floodlights illuminate the yellow wooden frame of the single story building and light the unpaved pathway that leads from the grassy lawn and improvised parking lot to the bright red double doors. The hall is packed for the Friday evening show, a bargain theater experience for the paltry sum of $5 per ticket. At an old-fashioned ticket window, complete with a wrought iron decorative arc that spans the sales booth, I quickly purchase a ticket and slip into the auditorium at the end of the hallway.

The simple, movie theater-esque cushioned seats of the playhouse fan out in an arc across the width of the room. About 20 rows of chairs stretch from within a foot of the stage to the far end of the playhouse, providing seating for a small audience of up to 200 people. The beauty of such a small venue is that every spectator is guaranteed a good seat. Even from the last row, the facial expressions of the actors are clearly discernible. And the gentle, downward slope of the room prevents any audience members from inadvertently obstructing the view of the theater-goers seated behind them. The vaulted ceiling of the former classroom provides great acoustic sound, and from my seat in the last row of the theater, I can clearly hear each line of the play - especially important when listening to Shakespearean dialogue.

With community theater, the quality of the actors is often less than stellar, but the performers at the Four County Players on this particular night are mostly solid practitioners of their craft. Many of the locally born and bred thespians are veterans of the Orange theatre scene who spend their days in the office and their nights and weekends on the stage. Experience is not always the best indicator of acting ability, though, as evidenced by the rather lackluster performance of Ray Smith, appearing in the title role of Othello. Though a graduate of Toronto’s Second City Theatre Conservatory and a nine-year veteran of the acting world, Smith’s portrayal of Othello lacks true emotional conviction, leaving the audience only too well aware that the man onstage is a modern actor, not a convincing embodiment of the 16th century Venetian general of Shakespearean fame. The true star of the show is a novice to the theater scene: David Vaughn Straughn, who shines as the villainous Iago. You hate to root for the scoundrel who, motivated by sheer jealousy and scorned pride, corrodes the love between the noble Othello and the virtuous Desdemona (portrayed by Claire McGurk), leaving a trail of death and destruction in his wake. Nonetheless, you somehow find yourself drawn into the compelling machinations of the articulate and emotive character. Even as you mourn for the murdered Desdemona and grieve for Othello as he realizes the error of his ways, you can’t help but feel slightly less than sad when the sometimes grating intonation of the title character comes to an end, albeit in a tragic way.

Though the acting abilities of some of the cast members of Othello are less than stellar, all of the thespians pull off the look of the 16th century Venetian soldiers and ladies that they portray; a testament to the costume and set designers of the production. The stark rouge uniforms of the men include blazers embellished with burnished gold buttons, tapering into coattails that extend the length of the frame; fitted trousers of a matching hue; and heavy, shining black boots. In the more heated scenes of the play, the characters reach for their rapiers, gripping the gilded handles of the weapons and maneuvering the slick swords in dramatic arcs and swoops so that the stage lighting glints off of the steel. In contrast to the fitted vestments of the male warriors, the leading ladies of the stage appear in voluminous dresses, tightly corseted about the waist and extending into ample skirts that could contain two wearers rather than one. Elegant detailing such as delicate lace neck and cuff lines and beaded silver edging on the bodice of the scarlet gowns (red is a fitting motif for this violent play) provide plenty of amusement for the eye.

Behind the vibrant characters, the stage is set with a scene of subtle elegance and natural splendor: a columned esplanade serves as the backdrop for the entirety of the play, with the edifice’s arches revealing a roaring seascape behind. As the play progresses from the streets of Venice to the island of Cyprus, the neutral backdrop proves surprisingly versatile. A stairway is built into the scenery, adding depth to the stage as the characters move up and down the split levels along the columned length of the playhouse. At the far left and right extremities of the platform, velvet curtains serve as the access points to the stage. Desdemona makes frequent use of these illusory exterior rooms, emerging periodically to praise, chastise, or implore her husband, Othello. The simplicity of the stage design is compensated for by the artistry of the sparse scene, which is painted in vibrant colors and set in lovely contrast to the darkened wings of the auditorium.

Despite the imperfections of the cast and a few intervals of lagging action in the play, Four County Players delivers a stirring rendition of Othello, including a finale rife with powerful emotion and cathartic effect. At bargain prices, in a unique venue, and thanks to passionate actors, community theater gets a makeover at Four County Players in Orange, VA.

Pick Your Wine, Pick Your Treats, and Don’t Forget to Pick Up Your Friends for the First Annual Pick of the Piedmont Festival

Slowly, smoothly, serenely: eight skydivers make a graceful descent from the heavens, soaring, twirling, gliding their way towards the grassy landing space of Skydive Orange. Buttercup yellow, rich plum, and patriotic red, white, and blue parachutes draw the eye of every land-bound spectator upward, to where the acrobats of the sky unwittingly perform for the audience below. On a perfect fall afternoon, in the waning weeks of October, at the peak of fall foliage for Virginia’s Piedmont region, the vibrant chutes compete with the glory of the tree limbs in the background. From the ridge of Boosters Park – a youth baseball field turned special events venue – a tree line of deciduous beauties stretches into the horizon, as far as the eye can see. The scarlet, burnt orange, and golden foliage along country route 20 is set ablaze by the late afternoon sun as the revelers at the first annual Pick of the Piedmont Wine Festival revel in the vino and joie de vivre that flow freely at this fall celebration.

Within the state of Virginia, Orange County might pass under the radar of most residents living more than 30 miles away, but on the national wine circuit, Orange is leaving its mark as home to some of the finest vineyards in one of the country’s premier wine-making regions. Virginia is host to the fifth-largest contingent of wine producing enterprises in the nation, with 85 wineries and 262 vineyards in operation as of 2004. And Orange County is home to two of the most lauded wineries in the state: Barboursville Vineyards and Horton Cellars. Based upon the astronomical success of its seminal red wine varietal, Octagon, Barboursville Vineyards has become a respected presence in some of the most prominent national and international wine competitions. In addition to the gold medal that the varietal earned at the Critics Challenge International Wine Competition in California in 2008, the Octagon Eighth Edition 2005 was named Best Overall Red Wine at the World Wine Championships in Chicago in 2009. A less traditional but no less exciting accolade came in the form of the selection of the Octagon Eighth Edition as the red wine of choice for the Inauguration Conservation Gala thrown for Barack Obama by the International Conservation Caucus Foundation.

Having established itself as a major force in the competitive field of winemaking, Orange is hosting a celebration of sorts with the Pick of the Piedmont festival, inviting neighboring wineries to come to the County's home turf and display their wares for hundreds of thirsty revelers. With a dozen vineyards each showcasing selections of up to ten wines, ranging from the standard red and white varietals to seasonally-inspired specialty makes, there is guaranteed to be a taste (or two or three) to please every palate. Wines are poured under a wooden pavilion that normally serves as a concession stand arena on Saturdays during the fall and spring, when little league football and baseball teams compete in the grassy fields adjacent to today’s festival grounds. Buyers who plan ahead can get a bargain price for the event, spending a mere $12 to sample wines from a dozen vineyards, which have set up booths under the wooden pavilion; most of these wineries charge a higher price just to sample their individual, in-house varieties. From the rosy glow and animated chatter of the attendees on Sunday afternoon, the finale of the 2-day festival running from October 24th to 25th, it seems that people are taking advantage of the sampling bonanza.

Though the “pick of the piedmont” happens to be wine at this particular event, there’s plenty of other tasty treats, not to mention music and entertainment, to please all ages and tastes. If the next vineyard stand on your tasting notes guide – a handy, bright yellow brochure distributed at the entrance booth – happens to be mobbed, take a moment away from the wine and line your stomach with some tasty food. Though there’s a certain refinement associated with the world of wines, the food at Orange’s oenophile festival is decidedly understated; more fair food than gourmet cuisine. This is not necessarily a bad thing, if you happen to be one of the dozen or so kids scampering about Booster Park or if your taste buds tend to gravitate towards the simpler things in life. Orange County may not be known as a multicultural food mecca, but the vendors at today’s event are selling an interesting array of culinary treats. What would a Virginia festival be without that Southern staple: pork BBQ? Luckily, you won’t have to worry about that frightening scenario at this event, for a tell-tale charcoal roaster can be seen from ten feet away, indicating that slow-roasted pork goodness awaits. At the family-run BBQ stand, two teenage girls stand ready to take your order or, if you’re struck by indecision at the choice of either the sweet Memphis or tangy North Carolina-style meat, to offer you samples of both, fresh from the grill. While the prices are slightly steep, with a simple BBQ pork sandwich – coleslaw included – running at $6.50, you’ll forget about your wallet qualms when you take a big bite of the tender, juicy, perfectly seasoned meat.

Aside from home-style Americana, there are also Italian and Mediterranean-inspired dishes available from the Pick of the Piedmont food stands. At Luigi’s bright yellow vending van, classic Italian dishes like spaghetti and meatballs and specialty subs, including chicken parmagiana, can be bought for $6 or $7 apiece. About five feet away, a unique amalgamation of foods, ranging from chicken wings served atop French fries to lamb kabobs and gyro sandwiches, are on sale in a Near Eastern-style fast food tent. Free market principles are apparently on display in this tasty treat corridor, for each of the entrees at this latter stand are advertised for $6 as well. Let your stomach guide your step; based on the smiles of the diners seated at the yellow plastic picnic tables or lounging upon blankets on the expansive grassy spread of the park grounds, there’s not a bad meal to be had.

Just as with wines, the dessert options are the stars of the show at the Pick of the Piedmont (okay, maybe there’s a little bit of bias behind that statement, but the lines at the sweet treat vendors can’t be ignored). Simply Susan’s, a catering company specializing in baked goods, has a series of tantalizing sweets displayed on a tabletop bursting with autumnal colors and harvest décor. The deep orange pumpkins imprinted on the tablecloth beneath the goodies and the plastic decorative gourds in the cornucopias on display hint at the fall harvest theme that is baked into the dishes. Apple turnovers and tarts, pumpkin rolls, and a gorgeous pumpkin pie cupcake are the highlighted foods of the fall menu at Susan’s, but traditionalists will find plenty of standard bakery fare, such as chocolate muffins and oatmeal-raisin cookies, when perusing the baskets of goodies. The longest lines extend from the Virginia Kettle Corn Company booth, a ubiquitous presence at the fairs and festivals of the Piedmont region and a favorite of kids and grown-ups alike. And as the temperature flirts with 70 degrees, CJ’s Soft Serve begins to steal patrons from the wine booths, as men and women suddenly become more intrigued in a vanilla cone than a glass of pinot.

Rising above the buzz of the crowd, whose animated chatter emanates from the wine booths at the center of Boosters Park and spreads as far as the gravel parking lot at the outer edge of the ballfield, comes the musical accompaniment of the afternoon: Radio Nowhere. Walking toward the event, the refrains of “Free Bird” bring a smile to my face, setting the tone for an afternoon of laid-back fun, yet another reminder that wine can be enjoyed in the open air, in jeans and tee-shirts, and in the company of old friends and gregarious strangers-of which there are many on this particular afternoon. The instrumentals of the group are solid, though the lyrics, when you get close enough to actually discern the words, are being sung slightly off-key. Whether it’s an effect of the free-flowing wine or the absolutely invigorating fall country air, the audience doesn’t seem to mind the tone of the lead vocalist in the least, and there’s a collective sigh of disappointment when the group prepares to exit the stage mid-afternoon.

Music lovers might be disappointed, but true foodies are ready to rush the stage as the next act, Chef Randy Cooper from the local restaurant Elmwood at Sparks, sets up for a cooking demonstration. Onlookers pack the small seating area arranged in front of the demo table and line the white picket fence that encloses the exhibition space. Though the acoustics for the event are unfortunate – only front-row viewers have any shot of hearing the chef’s play-by-play of how to cook a white wine, cranberry-glazed chicken – the sight and smell of the dish holds the attention of the salivating audience members. Within fifteen minutes, the breaded chicken cutlets have been doused in the fruit and wine reduction, and the chef’s assistant has cut the meat into bite-size portions, distributed as samples to the eager demo spectators. The dish has a definite kick to it, with the supremely tender meat and vibrant fruit elements taking a back seat to the white wine flavor. Sadly, the taste of the entrée is less impressive than the appearance, but after the unique experience of witnessing a highly trained chef executing his craft, you'll still walk away satisfied. The closing event of the wine-tasting weekend is an apt metaphor for the two-day festival itself: elegant fare served in an approachable fashion; audience-pleasing, live entertainment; and an inescapable joviality that seems to fall from the sky, in tandem with those skydivers.

Tuesday, October 20, 2009

Robinson's Tavern and Grill: Never Judge a Book by Its Cover

Masters of deception: the term is hardly ever applied to restaurateurs, but you can’t help but think of this cliché when you walk into Robinson’s Tavern and Grill in Orange, VA. To the right of the restaurant's entryway, a vacuum bag salesroom; to the left, an Exxon fueling station. But once you wrestle the solid oak front doors open and step into the strip mall eatery, you’re immediately transported beyond the humble exterior of this new addition to the local restaurant scene. Your expectations for the evening will rise three-fold when the pleasant attendant waiting behind the dark wood paneled hostess stand leads you around a corner and into a dining area comprised of about 15 simple tabletops covered with crisp, white linen cloths. The crackle and glow from a blazing fireplace built into the wall opposite the diners makes me almost grateful for the early chill and icy rain that have descended upon central Virginia, so cozy is the mood created within this intimate dining room. After settling into a comfortable four-top table abutting a decorative bookcase that spans the width of the room, I force myself to stop peeping at the rustic and Civil War era décor of the room long enough focus upon the critical task at hand: choosing food and wine for the night.

It turns out I’ve gotten serious about my dining duty just in the nick of time, for no sooner have I finished perusing the extended wine list than my dinner guest and I are greeted by our server for the evening. Providing high-quality service is obviously a point of pride at Robinson’s, for the greeting that we receive at the table is just as warm as the welcome that came from the hostess when we first entered the building. To the standard opener – what can I get y’all to drink? (uttered in a smooth Southern drawl), we have a ready answer; a glass of Turning Leaf White Zinfandel ($7; $18 per bottle) and a Diet Coke, no ice. With the drink order out of the way and the server on a beverage run, we hunker down with the menu in hand and peruse our dinner options for the evening. The restaurant specializes in fine quality American fare, so the selections include prime cuts of beef, a variety of seafood options, and several intriguing chicken dishes. Amongst the comprehensive menu items are a Grilled Rib-Eye or New York Strip Steak, available in 8, 10, or 12 oz portions; a surf and turf inspired, crabmeat-stuffed Beef Filet; grilled salmon; a seafood platter of broiled or fried flounder, jumbo shrimp, and fresh scallops; and crabmeat stuffed flounder or shrimp. In addition to the meat and potatoes spectrum, Robinson’s menu includes a handful of pasta dishes, ranging from the traditional chicken parmesan with spaghetti to the gourmet seafood linguine.

Though we’ve been mulling over the menu for a good ten minutes, it’s extremely difficult to settle upon a dish for the evening; it’s a good problem to have, and I don’t lament any indecision sparked by an overly appetizing array of menu options. Through careful analysis and a semi-haphazard process of elimination, I decide to bypass the evening specials – a tough decision considering my personal love of prime rib, which is one of the Friday night highlights, along with a carnivorous trifecta of filet of beef, lamb, and pork medallions. I even eschew the pasta dishes, including chicken fettuccine alfredo, spaghetti with a meaty Bolognese sauce, and shrimp and scallops linguine in a traditional al oglio (i.e. garlic and oil sauce), all of which tempt the carbaholic in me, per usual. When our server returns bearing beverages and a round baguette of fresh baked bread, I have my menu closed, confident in my request for a classic favorite with a twist – Chicken Chesapeake, a whole chicken breast stuffed with crabmeat, Smithfield ham, and spinach and topped with a tomato cream sauce. Each entrée is accompanied by a choice of soup or salad, a starch, and the vegetable of the day, providing a very hearty meal for a very reasonable price, with entrees ranging from $15 to $22 dollars.

With the tough job of ordering out of the way, it’s finally time to revel in the gustatory and aesthetic treat that is Robinson’s Tavern. With the first bite of warm, pleasantly doughy, fresh-baked bread, I’m sold on this spot. The mini loaf of guilty pleasure bread is gone before the appetizer arrives, allowing us to focus our attention on the crabmeat stuffed mushrooms ($8) that are served atop a bed of plain lettuce and displayed in a miniature white tureen. While the dish includes large chunks of succulent crab, the meat and mushrooms are sadly lacking in taste. The earthy mushroom undertone is the most noticeable flavor in the appetizer, and the normally decadent treat is devoid of its traditionally robust flavor – typically found in a slightly salty and sweet, garlic-based glaze that is absent from this version. The arrival of our soups helps improve the mood at the table, as this next round of dinner is much more satisfying than the appetizer. I eagerly dive – spoon-first of course – into a cup of French Onion Soup, nudging through a layer of warm, melted mozzarella cheese and a thick slice of moist crouton into the perfectly seasoned broth beneath. The New England Clam Chowder, the other soup option of the day, fails to impress in the same manner as the French Onion. The creamy dish does have a nice flavor, with a fresh clam taste that is complemented with just the right amount of salty undertone, but the chowder is a bit thin and leaves you lamenting the insufficient amount of signature clams in the dish.

There is a pleasant pace to the dinner service, which allows the diner sufficient time to savor each of the dishes but provides a steady flow of food, and just as we are ready to push the soup platters to the side, our pleasant waitress arrives with the main course. The plate in front of me contains a very generously-sized chicken breast, accompanied by a side of red skin, scalloped potatoes and a medley of broccoli, cauliflower, and round carrot slices. On the second plate, two massive crab cakes dominate half of the available platter space and are complemented nicely by a mound of vibrant orange, mashed sweet potatoes, along with the standard vegetable of the day. We dig into the food, eager to see how this next dish compares to its predecessors; fortunately, the meal continues to take a turn for the better with the arrival of the entrées.

The Chicken Chesapeake includes a delightful medley of flavors, with a fresh seafood taste, compliments of the perfectly seasoned crab meat, which pairs nicely with the pleasantly salted, thinly sliced ham and the moist, rich spinach. The rich tomato cream sauce that was drizzled liberally upon the chicken, which was admittedly slightly drier than ideal, was the perfect complement to the savory amalgamation of tastes in the dish. I was equally impressed with the generously portioned crab cakes, which were 90% smooth, succulent crab meat and 10% well-seasoned breading. Unfortunately, the side dishes paled in comparison to the scrumptious entrees, though the bar was set rather high. The thinly sliced scalloped potatoes were dusted with a creamy topping, however the signature cheese sauce lacked enough of the key ingredient. And the mashed sweet potatoes had a pleasantly sugary undertone, but the consistency was a less-than-ideal level of mushy, with lumps of starch spread throughout. As for the vegetables, the bland taste was far from sufficient to elevate the food from its traditional underdog status at the dinner table.

Due to the abundance of food presented in accompaniment to the entrees, the dessert selection at Robinson’s Tavern could easily be overlooked by thoroughly sated diners at the end of their meals. However, to ignore the sweet factor would be to miss out on a signature Robinson’s dining experience. The desserts are baked fresh on the premises, and though the selection is therefore somewhat limited, the quality more than compensates for the quantity. Too full to do more than share a slice of decadence, my dinner guest and I decided to split a piece of chocolate cake with white icing ($5) – the other dessert selections that night included a Boston Crème Pie and a slice of cake à la ice cream sundae. Our piece of moist, three-layer chocolate cake had a light color and a lovely milk chocolate flavor; it was slightly sweetened in a way that was perfectly suited to the sugary essence of the perfectly smooth, white icing. The side of whipped cream and sliced strawberries provided a creamy balance to the deliciously sweet dish.

Savoring the last of the edible showpieces at Robinson’s gives you the opportunity to appreciate the classic charm of the dining room, which is decorated in antique country couture. Beige valances embroidered with black velvet fleur de lis emblems are draped across two sets of expansive windowpanes. Gauze curtains in a paler hue of taupe flow down to the floor. In the evening dusk, the soft light emitted by the old-fashioned, gilded table lanterns exudes a warmth that is much more potent than the actual heat of the flame. Light and shadow play upon the white-washed walls of the room, alternately illuminating and concealing the black and white photos of Civil War generals and their wives. Timeless taste is the motif at Robinson’s Tavern and Grill, so feast your eyes and your appetite at this welcome addition to the Orange County restaurant repertoire.

Get Your Motor Runnin': Waugh Harley Davidson's Annual Chili Blowout

Sweetly spiced, succulent, beefy chili; the irresistible aroma wafts across the dozens of people gawking at the beautiful chrome motorcycles on display at the Waugh Enterprises Harley Davidson showroom. Feed the people, and they will come. Especially when those people have driven tens to hundreds of miles aboard their majestic hogs, reveling in the invigorating breeze, the crisp, country air, and the warm solar embrace that are the joys of every motorcyclist. For 33 years now, the family-owned Harley franchise in Orange, Virginia has held a Chili Cook-Off Celebration on the second Saturday in October; part celebration for the company’s loyal customers, part promotional extravaganza. Whether you have a bike, want a bike, or have ever had your curiosity piqued by that biker whizzing past you on the highway, you’re guaranteed to have a great time at Orange County’s landmark Harley Davidson shop.

Ten hand-carved wooden rocking chairs are spread across the inviting front porch of the local Harley emporium; the first sign that you’re about to enter a place that prides itself on Southern hospitality and old-fashioned family values. Three generations of Waughs have run Orange County’s most famous shop; it was started by the family patriarch in 1939 and is managed today by the son and grandson of P.D. Waugh. When you enter the dealership’s showroom, you’re often greeted by the elder Mr. Waugh himself, who reigns over his biker kingdom from a solid oak desk positioned just inside of the sparkling glass entryway.

Sporting a beige fleece vest over a blue plaid flannel shirt and smelling sweetly of cigars, the astute businessman has a decidedly grandfatherly air that makes you feel immediately welcome. Amazingly, all of the Waugh family members share this personable air, a fact that you’ll realize as soon as you meet Mrs. Waugh and the two Waugh children, all of whom work in the family business and are stationed throughout the expansive, two-level store. Whether you’re here to buy or browse, the Waughs are more than obliging when answering your questions and directing you through the treasure trove of antique bikes, new model hogs, and biker gear and bling that can be found within the shop.

70 years ago, Waugh Enterprises was begun as a simple car and tractor shop, servicing the local farm economy; today, the full-service motorcycle dealership has become a defining element of life in Orange, VA. When the shop became an authorized Harley Davidson dealer in 1976, history was in the making for Orange itself, which became host to the first official Harley dealership in the state. P.D. Waugh likely wouldn’t recognize his family business today; the Mom and Pop shop now boasts a 10,000 square foot showroom and has expanded to include departments for both motorcycle Service and Parts. A nearly hidden stairwell in the back of the showroom leads down to a fully loaded MotorClothes store, which stocks everything from high quality leather jackets - and the more adventurous accompanying chaps - to a collection of diamond Harley baubles sure to please any elegant biker chick.

Ever have the desire to take a stroll down memory lane? Well, at Waugh Enterprises, you can literally walk through such an aptly named wing of the building, which has become a sort of shrine to the founder’s son, Big Daddy Don “Hoss” Waugh’s, collection of car and motorbike memorabilia. A veritable historical cache of every ride with an engine, the collection includes locomotive parts that date from as early as 1831. Even with no working knowledge of motorcycles and classic cars, the sight of these old-fashioned models provides a sense of child-like excitement that strikes across all genders and ages (take it from a 20-something female with no prior interest in anything on wheels). The car models in the shop date back to the 1950s and are much closer in style to the toy versions that 5-year-olds ride in their driveways than to anything found on the interstate today. And the motorcycles, which come in pastel yellow and baby blue hues, include models that have been out of production for several decades.

On Big Daddy’s Chili Blowout day, Waugh Harley Davidson and Orange County are bombarded by visitors making their way – on two or four wheels – to the Route 20 hotspot on the edge of town. Bikers can enjoy discounts of up to 33% throughout the store, a big incentive for bike enthusiasts who put mega bucks into detailing their bikes and their outfits before they’re ready to ride. And to encourage bikers from across the state and country – the dealership had buyers come from as far as Wisconsin on Chili Blowout day – to make the trip to Orange, VA, the Waughs are holding a free raffle for 33 gas cards.

Not in the market for a Harley? No worries; even non-bikers will find the trip worthwhile just for a sample of the delicious chili varieties that have been prepared by the informal chefs – i.e. Harley Davidson employees – at the Waugh shop. Though just 90 miles south of Washington, D.C., Orange is decidedly a proud southern county, and the people here know how to cook. Each of the ten pots of chili being served to eager customers at the Harley Davidson shop is delicious – but each is also subtly distinctive, tantalizing both sweet and spicy taste buds of the happy samplers. Several mouthfuls of the hearty stew are more than enough to make one satisfying meal. And while the samples are offered free of charge, tasters are encouraged to make a small donation in support of their favorite chili; the chef whose chili gets the most dollar votes earns bragging rights at the dealership, and the Waugh family charity – Treasure Chest for Kids – gets all of the proceeds from the event.

“The average Waugh Harley Davidson customer drives past two other dealerships to reach us,” the grandson of the Orange County chapter founder proudly explains. And after just one visit to the store, it’s easy to see why. At Waugh Enterprises, the customer comes first, second, and third; you just can’t fake the kind of solicitude that the owners and staff at Waugh shower upon every person who steps through the front door. While service is essential to the sale of bikes, whose costs sometimes rival that of standard cars, adding a little fun to the mix often earns repeat business and a great reputation in the motorcycle world. The Chili Blowout is the seminal event for October, but the calendar guarantees plenty more entertainment in the months to come. Take a ride along the wending path of Route 20, admire the picket fence pastures that roll right by the Waugh Enterprises Harley Davidson shop, and be sure to stop and say hi to the Waughs or join the party at an annual Beach Bash, Harley Gras, or Big Daddy BBQ. Waugh Harley Davidson: where family values and hog-wild times rule.